SAUNA KIT MATERIALS
The materials used to create a sauna really are subjected to the extremes of heat and atmosphere.
Very few structures, particularly those associated with the home, are designed to encounter these extremes of internal temperature and humidity variation.
For this reason, the sauna needs to be isolated from the rest of the building through its independent construction. It also needs to be assembled from materials that can deal with these extreme conditions and rapid temperature and humidity changes.
As a result of these requirements, sauna kits tend to use consistent materials and assembly methods, all of which have been proven to work over time.
Cedar, Spruce, Aspen, and Obeche wood
A number of different materials can be used in sauna kits, but cedar wood is one of the most popular for the sauna lining (particularly in the USA). It is also considered by many to be the most attractive and the most practical of sauna materials.
Cedar has a number of good qualities, but one of the best is the mild and pleasant aroma that it releases and which many people automatically associate with the larger saunas found in towns or as part of health complexes.
Cedar also has excellent performance characteristics including its ability to expand and contract during the various heating and cooling phases of sauna use.
It is important for the benches in the sauna to be made from a wood with poor heat conduction properties so that they do not become overly hot when in use. Cedar, Spruce, Aspen, and Obeche woods are all commonly used in sauna kits.
Damp proofing or vapour barriers
The other critical material in a sauna kit is a vapour barrier of some kind. This retains the atmosphere and humidity created by the sauna within the sauna.
Heat and particularly moist heat, can cause rapid deterioration in many construction materials and this can lead to damp patches and mould if allowed to escape from the sauna environment. A vapour barrier prevents this by sealing the sauna and its atmosphere. This is critical if the sauna is located in a house or regular living space.
Damp proof barriers are usually included in pre-fab sauna kits, but may not be included in sauna material kits.
Insulation
Whilst the vapour barrier will retain any moisture within the sauna or, in a dry sauna, prevent moisture from being sucked out of the surrounding atmosphere (e.g. the building), heat loss also needs to be considered.
Insulating the sauna makes it more efficient to heat (if stove heating is used) and also prevents the sauna from losing heat to other parts of the building in which it is contained.
Insulation is normally included within the walls and ceiling of pre-fab sauna kits, but rarely included in material sauna kits. In the case of the latter, insulating the room or cabin would be required as a pre-sauna kit installation project. The insulation would need to be purchased and installed separately.
Nails
Most sauna kits use nails and these nails should be galvanised or of stainless steel. Standard nails will corrode and rust. The nails should be provided with the kit.
Heater guard
If the sauna uses any form of stove heater (i.e. not an infrared heater), it should be protected with a guard and this should be supplied with the kit. Alternatively, if the stove if this is purchased separately, the guard may be included with the stove.
A heater can reach very high temperatures and should therefore offer a degree of protection to the sauna users.
Saunas are unique
Sauna temperatures can get very high and, whilst a sauna may initially be very dry, throwing water on the rocks or benches can create instantaneous high levels of water vapour. This action, known as a steam shock, produces an almost simultaneous mass increase in humidity and, along with it, tough conditions for the sauna’s materials.
The materials used to form a sauna kit consequently become paramount to its long term performance and lifespan. Always buy a sauna kits comprising the best quality materials that you can afford.
Things to look for in sauna kit materials
- All cedar used in sauna kits should be clear, grade A, kiln dried cedar. Other wood types are considered inferior, but may be cheaper.
- Tongue and groove fitting is always superior to non tongue and groove.
- Look for the thickest sections of timber for features like benches. Increased thickness equals increased strength, durability and consequently lifespan. 2 inch by 4 inch sections are ideal.
- Timber that is finished on two sides is better than that with only a single-sided finish. It gives you a choice of “best” face which makes matching etc easier and leads to a superior job.
- Ideally, doors and windows should be double glazed (twin pane) with safety or shock resistant glass.
- Screw fittings that fit from the underside of units are superior as screw heads will not be visible. All nails should be galvanised and all screws (which are used for the benches) should be treated.
- Check out the thermostat that comes with the heater and make sure that it has a timer (time delay) function.
- Ensure that light fittings are vapour proof.
- Sauna kits of the material (not pre-fab) kind will assume that you provide the enclosure, i.e. the room, shed, or cabin in which the sauna kit will be assembled and fitted. This will include such items as, dry walling, framing, insulation etc.